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Make Natural Soap At Home - Basic Recipe. I started making bar soaps at home from scratch a few months ago and have become somewhat . It seems like a strange thing to do, especially in this day and age (and I live in Silicon Valley).
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Well at first I did it out of curiosity more than anything else. But after I started using my handmade soaps and read more about it, I discovered that they have more benefits than I realized. Until a few months ago, Softsoap or Dial liquid hand soaps and Dove or Olay body washes are what you would find in our home, and it has been that way for a long time. During this last winter season (and previous ones), my skin got really dry and itchy and none of the . Then I started using my handmade soaps, and the itching stopped and the dryness improved significantly.
The soaps had nice lather even with our hard water, didn't sting Michael's eyes when he washed his face, and rinsed clean quickly unlike the body washes that left a film on the skin. I gave some to my parents, Michael's parents, coworkers, and friends, and everyone liked them. The more I read about soap making, the more I realized that simple and natural soaps are much better than commercial soaps. Commercial soaps (liquid and bar) contain chemicals that may be harmful in the long run (some people are out right sensitive to them) and synthetic detergents (e. Commercial soap manufacturing also takes out the glycerin (moisturizer) from the soap and sells it to cosmetics manufacturers for more profit. Natural soaps retain the glycerin and are generally milder (mine are p. H 7), whereas commercial soaps are generally more alkaline (p.
H 1. 0) with the exception of Dove (p. H 7). I don't think I'll ever go back now that I've used handmade natural soaps.
There are soaps on the market that are made with wholesome ingredients, e. It's an excellent book for the beginner soap maker. I followed the basic recipe in this book which uses the following ingredients and yields ~2 lbs of soap: Note: these are weight, not volume measurements. If you are wondering . Lye reacts with the oils to form soap and glycerin - there is no lye left in the soap if the recipe is formulated properly.
In fact many soap recipes are . The castor oil in the above recipe is for superfatting the soap and boosting lather. Lye is not only used in soap making but also in many bath and beauty products such as toothpaste, mouthwash, deodorant, skin care products, etc. Go to Drugstore. com and do a search for sodium hydroxide, and you'll see a long list of common products that contain this ingredient. Now that I've made a number of batches of soap, I can tell you that as long as appropriate precautions are taken (explained below), it is safe to work with lye.
So where do you get lye? If you have a Lowe's near by, that would be the easiest - find . Before you freak out on the drain opener part, let me explain that this product is 1.
It comes in tiny little beads of snowy white color. I've read from other soap making sites that Ace Hardware also carries a .
If you don't have either of these stores nearby, you can buy lye online - do a search for . Please don't use crystal Drano or any other drain opener because they contain additional ingredients such as aluminum bits and/or other chemicals that definitely shouldn't be in your soap! For olive oil you can use any kind but the color of the soap will vary. Extra virgin olive oil is usually greenish yellow, so the soap will take on that color as well. Extra light olive oil is usually lighter and your soap will be whiter as a result. Coconut oil is a staple ingredient in soap recipes - it contributes lather and hardness to the soap.
It can be found in health food stores, Whole Foods, or Walmart (in the cooking oil section), and is usually in solid form below 7. Castor oil can be found in drug stores and Walmart. You can also use other plant- based oils in soap making, such as soy bean oil (common vegetable oil), canola oil, corn oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, Crisco, or animal fats such as tallow (beef fat) and lard (pork fat), but the amount of lye required will change depending on the oil. There are lye calculators online so people can make their own recipes, but for first time soap makers it's better to follow the recipe exactly (make no substitutions). I will discuss lye calculation and soap recipe formulations at another time. The tools you will need are: - safety goggles to protect your eyes- thick rubber gloves to protect your hands and arms from the lye (wear long sleeve shirt, long pants, and socks if possible so none of your skin is exposed in case there's a splash/spill)- a good scale for weighing the water, lye, and oils. Pyrex or Anchor brands), one for the lye & water solution, the other for the oils- plastic, ceramic, or glass bowl for measuring the lye- plastic or silicone spoon for stirring (wood is not recommended because lye will .
Also wood is not recommended for repeated use because over time the wood will eventually break down from coming into prelonged contact with lye. The instructions for this basic recipe is for cold process soap making, which doesn't require cooking the soap after mixing the oils and lye water together.
This method takes less time while making the soap, but requires longer curing time (3- 4 weeks minimum) before the soap becomes neutral and mild enough to use. In contrast, the hot process involves cooking the soap mixture in a stock pot or double boiler for a few hours which speeds up the neutralization process but also takes longer to make the batch. I've done both and each has it's pros and cons. I'll discuss hot process at another time. At a high level, cold process soap making is pretty simple - mix lye with water, mix lye water with oils, pour mixture into container, cut solidified soap, and let cure for a few weeks.
Below are the detailed steps: 1. Never pour water into lye as this will cause a strong reaction and the splash/eruption can incur serious injuries.
Set aside the lye water to cool. You can reduce the amount of cooling time by sitting the measuring cup in a cold water bath in the sink, or by freezing the distilled water into ice cubes beforehand, which also seems to reduce the fumes generated when lye is added. Melt the oils in the microwave - start with 1 min, then 3. Avoid overheating the oils because it will take longer for the oil to cool than the lye water. For small batches such as this recipe, it’s better to work at the higher end of the temperature range. If the oils have cooled down too much, you can warm it up a bit in the microwave - use 3.
Another way to confirm the soap mixture has . The stick blender will take a few minutes if not seconds (depending on the power of the blender), the whisk might take up to an hour if you have weak arms like mine. I've only read about these issues, since I haven't had a single batch of lye heavy soap having followed the recipe exactly. Because this recipe is all natural and doesn't have any preservatives, the soaps will go bad eventually. Hopefully they'll get used up so quickly or given away as gifts that you'll never find out what soap gone bad is like : )! To clean up after making soap, with your goggles and gloves on (because the soap mixture is not yet neutral), wipe everything down with towel/paper towel then wash with dishwashing liquid and warm water.
There's a lot more I want to share about soap making, e. But I think my first blog entry is long enough.